CLA
to Begin Control of Curlyleaf Pondweed in Selected Sites
As many of you are
aware, the invasive species curlyleaf pondweed is becoming
more and more of a nuisance in
Upper and Lower
Cullen Lakes. Middle Cullen does not yet have any noticeable
infestations of it. Last summer,
due to low lake
water levels, no snow cover on the lake for most of the winter, and
an extremely warm early spring,
curlyleaf got an
extra early good start to its growing season and it formed large
surface mats on many areas of the
lakes. These mats
greatly interfered with navigation until the plants died back in
July. Then, with all the nutrients
released into the
water by the dying plants, native vegetation enjoyed a
long, healthy growth spurt. Thus,
curlyleaf pondweed
packs a double whammy --forming thick surface mats of
plants during the first half of the
summer and
fertilizing native plants during the rest of the summer.
Your Board of
Directors has decided it is time to take action and it has
selected the local company Minnesota
Shoreline
Restoration, Inc. to conduct a pilot three year program for treatment of
curlyleaf pondweed in two
selected areas of
the Cullen Lakes chain. The two areas are the northeast
portion of Lower Cullen and the south
outlet vicinity of
Upper Cullen. These areas were chosen because of the amount of
curlyleaf pondweed present and
the amount of boat
traffic through the curlyleaf, cutting it into pieces that float
off and spread the plant to new areas.
Exactly how many
surface acres will be chemically treated for curlyleaf
pondweed control will be
determined this
spring by a pre treatment survey. Treatment cost per acre
will be $400. Chemical control of
this invasive
aquatic species needs a minimum of three consecutive years to be
successful. Future curlyleaf
pondweed control
will be determined by the success of this pilot program.
CLA has enough
money in its Projects and Invasives CD accounts to fund the
first year of this three year pilot
program. We will
need to raise funds to pay for future years’ chemical
treatment. The Board of Directors is
currently
discussing various ideas for conducting this fund raising. If you
have experience and/or expertise in
fund raising, or if
you have what you think might be a good idea or two, please
contact a member of the Board
and let him/her
know. There will be more details on all of this in the summer
newsletter and at the Annual Meeting.
Fund raising is
going to be a big effort and property owners on all three
lakes will need to help out as much as
they can.
Most
Improved Shoreline Award Debuts This Year
It is time to
submit your nomination(s) for CLA’s 2008 Most Improved Shoreline
Award, to be presented to a
maximum of one
property per lake this summer at the August 9 Annual Meeting.
This award will be in addition
to the Lake
Friendly Shoreline Awards.
Candidates may
nominate their own property or they may be nominated by a
neighbor or friend. Nominations must
include the
property owner’s name, “before” shoreline photos, “after”
shoreline photos, and a short written
narrative of the
work done. Nominations may be sent to Ann Beaver, 26834 Pine
Acres Rd., Nisswa, MN 56468.
Nominations for
this year’s award must be received by July 12, 2008.
If you think you
might be interested in being considered for this award in the
future, start your planning and picture
taking now. It
takes a while for a lakeshore to show the effects of your efforts!
CLA has two items in its lending
library to help you
with your shoreline improvement project: the CR-ROM
“Restore Your Shore,” a multimedia
program that guides
users through the process of protecting a natural shoreline or
restoring a degraded shore with a
natural buffer; and
the book Lakescaping for
Wildlife and Water Quality. Contact Ann
Beaver to borrow these items.
On-site
Wastewater Disposal System Advice Offered
Seasonal property
owners will be returning to their lake homes and cabins soon.
The leaders of the Lake and
Watershed
Association of South Carolina put together this concise information
about on-site wastewater (septic)
system management
for their members. CLA members may find it helpful,
too.
General Advice
*Take time to learn
how your septic system works.
*Learn the
indications of a failing system.
*Know the location
of your tank, tank access lid, and drain field.
*Understand that no
traditional septic system is ever "maintenance free.”
*Understand that
the practices and actions of homeowners can significantly impact
functionality of a septic system.
*Have the
capability to inspect your system periodically.
*Install a riser
with lid.
*Pump out your
system as needed; learn how to calculate how often your system
needs to be pumped.
Best
Practices
*Additive systems
bought at grocery/hardware stores are generally not helpful.
*Avoid greases,
excessive bleach, or harsh detergents entering your waste
system. Strong chemicals kill "good"
bacteria in the
system and can cause your system to fail.
*Don't flush any
solid items into the system that can be put in the trash; many of
these will not degrade in the system
and necessitate
more frequent pumping.
*Limit use of
garbage disposals that pass solids into your system, for the same
reason as above.
*Do not allow
vehicles to drive over your tank or drain field. Do not build
structures over the leach field either.
*Do not direct
surface water or downspouts to release water over the drain
field.
*It is not safe to
separate wash waters/gray water to a side ditch or the woods.
Gray water contains germs that can spread disease.
*Never enter your
septic tank. Toxic gases can kill.
*If your tank is
not pumped periodically, solids can flow into your drain field
where they clog the normal action of
water filtering
into the soil. This begins the process leading to failure of the drain
field. This is the most prevalent
cause of failure.
*Never damage or
remove the inlet and outlet "tee" pipe in your tank. Doing so
changes the intended process in the
tank, and can
result in solids moving into the drain field.
Warning
Signs of a Failing System Needing Attention
*Damp, mushy ground
above parts of the drain field.
*Standing water
with an oily film or dark color.
*Odor problems.
*Household plumbing
that backs up or doesn't drain properly.
Three
Reasons (many exist) to Properly Maintain Your Septic System
*Economic --The
expense and time to properly maintain a system is minor compared
to the cost to repair or replace a
system (not to
mention the mess to your yard).
*Health --You do
not want to expose your family or others to disease carrying
bacteria.
*Environment
--Failed systems pollute lakes and drinking water.
Is Your Shoreline Washing Away?
If your shoreline
is eroding it is because the soil has been destabilized. This can
be the result of fluctuating water
levels, increased
wave or wake action, ice pushes, loss of natural vegetation, and human activity.
Protecting your
shoreline likely
doesn’t need to be high-cost or highly engineered. There are affordable, low - impact
methods to
stabilize your shoreline and still
protect property values,
water quality, and habitat.
The Minnesota
Department of Natural Resources (DNR) encourages you to
consider planting native vegetation
(deep rooted
grasses, forbs, shrubs, trees) to control shoreline erosion,
enhance aesthetic values, and contribute
to better water
quality in your lake. Only where there is a demonstrated need to use
rip rap to stop existing erosion or
to restore an
eroded shoreline is the installation of rip rap allowed. It should be
viewed as the least desirable
solution to an
erosion problem because, although it can reduce erosion, it can
be expensive and can negatively
affect lakes by
creating a barrier between upland areas and the shoreline
environment. Rip rap should only be used
where it has been
shown to be necessary and never to replace a stable,
naturally vegetated shoreline. Also, it
should be noted
that rip rap is not maintenance free nor does it eliminate ice
heaving; in fact, it can increase the
damage to the
shoreline done by ice heaving. If rip rap is used, consider planting
live cuttings and plant plugs within
the rip rap to
provide additional slope stability, give your shoreline a more natural
appearance, and provide a modest
amount of habitat
MARK
YOUR CALENDARS!
Cullen Lakes
Association Annual
Meeting
Saturday, August 9,
2008
Membership
Update
On March 8, final
notices were mailed to those members who had not yet paid
their dues for 2008. As of April 12,
CLA had 213 paid
memberships. In addition, complimentary
memberships had been extended to 15 new property owners,
bringing the total membership to 228.
Donations continue
to be received with dues payments. To date, CLA has received
$3,355 in donations. Each donation
was acknowledged
with a thank you note, but CLA would like to thank once again
the many people who included a
donation with their
dues.
At this time there
are 22 past members who have not yet renewed their membership
in CLA. If you are among them,
please consider
sending your dues as soon as possible to:
CLA
Membership
P.O.
Box 466
Nisswa,
MN 56468
Dreaming
of Spring!
by Anne Kostreba
I’m writing this
during the April 11th blizzard so
hopefully by the time you read this the
snow will have
finally melted and there will be signs of spring. One
of the signs of
spring is the trash in the ditches along the roads that
needs to be cleaned up.
Our
annual spring road cleanup will be
Saturday, May 17.
We will meet at
8:30 a.m at Wilderness Ridge Road, off Hwy.
371. Bags, gloves, reflective vests, as well as long handled
“grabbers” (so you don’t even have to bend over) will
be provided. Last year we had a great turnout and were
done in about an hour. An hour of
your time for the
environment! It is also a great way to get to know some of the
other Lake Association members. Bring friends,
relatives, anyone who would enjoy a little exercise, some fresh air
and great conversation.
Refreshments will
be served.
Currents
on the Cullens
New
owners
Middle Cullen: Mark
& Angela Wallin (M58.5);
Wilderness Resort
Villas --Lowell & Darlene Bonnema, Patricia Heald, Thomas
Wilson & Gayle Gaumer, Thomas
& Marjorie Hane
Lower Cullen: Good
Ol’ Days Resort unit --Brian & Jill Guimont
Correction to the
last edition: Location of Michael & Colleen Nelson property
is L109, not L100.
Latest
Land Use Developments On the Cullen Chain
On March 25, 2008
the Crow Wing County Board of Commissioners approved
the final plat for Stallion Ridge,
a ten lot (in
addition to the existing lot with a house) development on the
Gammello property on the northeast
shore of Upper
Cullen Lake.
The lots will be
sold for single family home residential use only. The developer,
Stallion Development, St. Michael,
MN, has developed a
lakeshore owners guide, which includes many DNR fact
sheets, that it plans to give to all
who purchase the
lots. Property owners will also be given suggestions on how to
share dock access to open water, but
they will not be
required to do so.
On March 20. 2008
the Crow Wing County Board of Adjustment denied an
after-the-fact variance request on the
former Iten
property on Middle Cullen Lake (now in foreclosure) for a bluff
setback of zero feet instead of the
required 30 feet
for:
1) dirt moving of approximately 450-500 cubic yards,
2) septic system installation in the bluff and within the
footprint of the dwelling, and
3) construction
of a retaining wall in the bluff. Basically what the property owner
had done was to cut off the top of
the existing bluff
to create a building site. The result of the decision is that the
property will have to be restored to its
pre violation
condition.
What
Causes Ice Ridges and What Can I Do About Them?
from the MN
DNR Fact Sheet “Shoreline Alterations: Ice Ridges”
Property owners
occasionally return to their cabins in the spring only to discover
they are dealing with property
damage caused by a
phenomenon called “ice heaving” or “ice jacking.” This
powerful natural force forms a feature
along the shoreline
known as an “ice ridge.” The result may include significant
damage to retaining walls, docks
and boat lifts, and
sometimes even to the cabin itself.
How do ice ridges form? Ice ridges
are caused by the pushing action of a
lake’s ice sheet against the shore.
Cracks form in the
ice because of different contraction rates at the top and
bottom of the ice sheet. This is
especially true in
years that the ice sheet lacks an insulating snow cover.
Ice cracks also develop because
the edges of the
ice sheet are sometimes firmly attached to the shore. When water
rises in the cracks and freezes, the
ice sheet expands
slightly. Rising air temperatures warm the ice, leading to
additional expansion, which exerts a
tremendous thrust
against the shore. Alternate warming and cooling of the ice
sheet leads to additional pushing
action, causing the
ice to creep shoreward and scrape, gouge, and push soil and
rock into mounds -- ice ridges.
What
can be done about ice ridges after they
form?
Because ice ridges
do provide ecological benefits (described later is this
article), the ideal reaction to the
formation of an ice
ridge would be to do nothing other than remove personal
property from its zone of influence.
However, this is
often impractical. Ice ridges can impede use of the lake by a
property owner or the users of public
lakeshore
facilities. Therefore, action may be taken to remedy the results of
ice activity.
Lake access can be
obtained by installing a ramp over or a stairway through the ice
ridge. There are circumstances,
however, when it
may be necessary to remove or grade an ice ridge. An individual
Public Waters Work Permit is not
required from the
DNR to remove or grade an ice ridge if the work meets all the
following conditions:
*The ice ridge
resulted from ice action within the last year.
*The project is
either exempt from local permits or is authorized by issuance
of a local government permit.
*Not more than 200
feet of shoreline is affected.
*All ice ridge
material that consists of muck, clay, or organic sediment is
deposited and stabilized at an upland
site above the
ordinary high water level (OHWL)
*All ice ridge
material that consists of sand or gravel is removed as provided in
the bulleted statement above or
graded to conform
to the original cross section and alignment of the
lakebed, with a finished surface at or
below the OHWL.
*No additional
excavation or replacement fill material occurs on the site.
*All exposed areas
are immediately stabilized as needed to prevent erosion and
sedimentation. (Refer to DNR
information on
Lakescaping for how to do this.)
*Local zoning
officials and the Soil and Water Conservation District
(SWCD) are given at least seven (7)
days’ notice before
beginning the project.
Removal or grading
of an ice ridge must not disturb emergent aquatic
vegetation, unless authorized by an
aquatic plant
management permit from the DNR’s Division of Fisheries.
What
can be done about ice ridges before
they form?
The simplest means
of avoiding ice-related damage to shoreline property is to
ensure that personal property is out
of wrath’s path.
Engineering solutions are sometimes pursued to try to
prevent ice ridge formation, but they can
be expensive and
ineffective, and they should only be attempted by
professionals in the field. Also, an individual
Public Waters Work
Permit is likely required for an engineering solution.
What are the
benefits of ice ridges? Ice ridges are natural berms that have
formed around Minnesota’s lakes over
thousands of years.
These mounds of material provide the lake with
ecological benefits by creating a barrier to
nutrient loading.
Nutrients collect on the landward side of the mound,
producing fertile soil where plants and trees
thrive. The root
systems of this near-shore plant community help to
protect the shore from erosion and soak
up additional
nutrients. Shade and habitat offered by near-shore plants
benefit organisms along the shore and in the
lake, thus
supporting nesting and spawning fish.
Ice ridges also
work to protect the shore from the lake itself. For
example, a small ice ridge formed one year is
followed by
additional pushes in ensuing years. The ridge is fortified by
jamming rocks into it. The roots of the near-
shore plant
community bind together the soil and rock to form natural
shoreline protection.
from
the
president’s pen
Reflections
From a
Beaver Lodge
by Ann Beaver
Reading through the
CLA Guide For Lakeshore Owners last fall in
preparation for making some updates and
revisions to it, I
realized I hadn’t perused it in quite a while. I would
imagine most of you haven’t looked at it
very recently
either. So, I’ve decided to devote my space in this issue to
reminding all of us of some of the important
tidbits the guide
contains.
There’s a lot of
talk these days about the importance of having a vegetative
buffer strip along the shoreline. The
main reasons for
doing so are to: 1) protect water quality by preventing
contaminants from entering the lake, 2)
reduce erosion by
controlling runoff, 3) preserve the esthetic value of
the lakeshore, 4) provide habitat for
wildlife, 5)
provide privacy and serve as a buffer from the noise of lake
activity, and 6) increase the enjoyment of
being at the lake
by decreasing the time spent on lawn care. The easiest
way to get a buffer strip started is to
simply stop mowing.
A buffer strip is most effective as a filter if native
species are allowed to grow or are planted
over as large an
area of the shoreline as possible.
Did you know the
amount of vegetation that may be removed in the
shore impact zone (half the structure
setback from the
lake) and the bluff impact zone (the bluff and land located
within 30 feet from the top of the bluff) is
regulated by local
zoning ordinances? If you plan to remove any
vegetation in these areas, be sure to check
with your local
planning and zoning office.
Also, since the
alteration of shoreland through excavation or fill of
materials can adversely affect the natural
resources, such
activities are strictly regulated by state and local units of
government. The dirt moving standards are
designed to allow
greater amounts of dirt moving as the distance from the
water increases. Be sure to check to see
if you need any
permits before starting any project in the shoreland.
A couple of septic
system tips to add to those in the article on page 2:
*Use toilet paper
that breaks up easily when wet (usually 1-ply).
*Use low or zero
phosphate liquid dishwasher and laundry detergents.
*Do only one load
of laundry per day and try not to run the dishwasher and
washing machine too close together. Give
your septic system
time to deal with all the water being put into it.
Do you give the
placement of your dock much thought? Lakes are public
waters. Therefore, docks do not have to
meet the side yard
setback from your property line since they are in and on
public property. However, if you plan to
use both sides of
your dock for recreational activities or boat mooring,
please be a good neighbor and place your
dock more toward
the center of your shoreline.
Some of you may not
realize that a permit is needed to place swimming
rafts in the water between sunset and
sunrise. The same
is true of buoys. Permitted items must be lit or
reflectorized for the safety of others on the lake.
While the use of
recreational activity accessories can increase the
enjoyment of the lake, remember that the
design and
placement of these items, by law, must not interfere with the
rights of others to use public waters.
Many properties on
the Cullen Lakes have areas in the rear lot zone where
leaves, vines, plants, and small brush can
be deposited or
composted. When this is not an option, the refuse can be taken
to the Crow Wing County Sanitary
Landfill. A third
option is to burn the dried vegetation. However, except
when there are at least three inches of
snow on the ground,
the burning of yard waste requires a permit . If
you decide to burn, remember to 1) obtain
a burning permit,
2) burn well away from the shoreline to keep unneeded
nutrients out of the lake, 3) make sure the
prevailing wind is
away from nearby residents, and 4) follow permit
regulations. And remember, it is
illegal to
burn household
waste because of the dangerous toxins it releases into the
air.
Finally, please do
your part in preventing the spread of invasive species.
Know the precautions you should take
when using your
boats, trailers and personal watercraft in more than one lake
(see pages 32-33 of your CLA guide or
refer to the DNR’s
fishing and boating publications). Also, be sure to empty
your bait buckets on land and drain the
live wells, bilge
water, and transom wells of your boat before leaving a
water access area.
July
4th Boat
Parades
Both Middle and
Lower Cullen Lakes
will once
again have a boat parade on the
Fourth of July.
Participants should
gather at the east end of their
lake shortly before 2:00 P.M. Photos from each parade will
appear in the summer newsletter.
Rain
Barrels: A Way of Collecting and Using Rainwater
WHAT
IS A RAIN
BARREL?
University
of Minnesota Extension
A rain barrel is
any type of container used to catch water flowing from
a downspout. Rain barrels reduce the amount of
stormwater runoff by collecting roof runoff and
storing the rainwater for future use.
HOW DOES IT WORK?
The rain barrel is
placed underneath a shortened downspout,
diverting the roof runoff into the rain
barrel. Placing the
rain barrel on a STURDY platform will allow for more
clearance under the
spigot, and it will
also increase the rate of flow if you are attaching a
hose to the barrel’s spigot.
HOW DO I MAINTAIN
THE RAIN BARREL?
During the spring
and summer months
routinely
inspect your rain
barrel. Remove any
debris that has accumulated on the
lid that might
block the screen
mesh. You should also routinely
clean the inside of
your rain barrel.
During the winter months, remember to
take your barrel
out of operation.
Simply turn it upside down or
store it inside and
redirect the
downspout away from the foundation.
BENEFITS
OF USING A
RAIN BARREL
- They
provide an
alternative to tap water for watering lawns and
flower gardens.
- They
will help
reduce peak volume and velocity of stormwater
runoff reaching lakes and rivers.
- They
will help
reduce peak water demands during the summer
months.
RESTRICTIONS
ON
RAIN BARREL USE
- Water
collected
from rain barrels is not suitable for human or pet
consumption.
- Due to
lack of
research data, water collected in a rain barrel is
not recommended for watering fruit or vegetable
gardens.
- The water
flow
(and pressure) will be less than from your outdoor
spigot, making sprinklers ineffective.
Plan
to use soaker hoses, handheld spray nozzles
and/or watering cans. Elevating
your rain barrel on
a sturdy platform will increase the flow.
INTERESTING FACTS
ABOUT RAIN BARRELS
- Rainwater
can
actually help improve the health of your
gardens, lawn and trees. Rainwater is
naturally “soft” and devoid of minerals,
chlorine and other chemicals found in
city water.
- During
a
one-inch rain event 0.6 gallons of water will fall
on a square foot ofroof and 54 gallons
will fall on 90 square feet of roof—enough
to fill a 55 gallon rain barrel. To
collect twice this volume from the same
downspout, connect the overflow hose from
the first rain barrel to a second rain
barrel.
- A plastic
rain
barrel may be painted any color you wish. Use spray
paint specially formulated to bond well to
plastic surfaces.
- Rain barrels
can
be purchased at a cost betwen $70-$300. Or, you
can reduce your costs considerably
by making your own.
Have you ever
watched a river of rainwater run down your driveway into the lake or
storm sewer? Or even worse, seep
into your basement? Collecting roof runoff in rain barrels is a good
solution to these problems and it
also helps alleviate stressed water systems and conserve limited
resources. Although rain barrels have
been around for thousands of years, people are now encouraged more than
ever to use
them as a way
to protect our lakes and rivers while saving money on water bills.
Start a new
trend—by placing rain barrels around your house, you will be teaching
and encouraging
others
in your neighborhood to do the same!
Rain
Barrels --
$88.80
available
at the
Northland Arboretum Visitor
Center
Monday
- Friday, 8
a.m. - 4 p.m.
218-829-8770
Preserve
the Beauty
of the Night With Sensible Shoreland
Lighting
excerpted
from an
article by Dave Liebl, UW Extension
Many of us can
remember sitting on a dock on a crystal clear summer night,
the water as flat as glass, the inky
black surface
mirroring the sky, the great white Milky Way, a falling star
tracing a path across the heavens.
Unfortunately, this
precious part of our heritage, the outdoors with only
the light of the moon and stars, is
fading away. Dusk
to dawn lights obscure our view of constellations,
meteor showers, planets and the landscape
lit by the moon.
Sensible lighting
can minimize the three most serious problems along
shorelands: glare, light trespass and sky
glow. The first
principle of good lighting is to illuminate only what we wish
to see. When we see light from a
fixture itself
rather than what the fixture is meant to illuminate, we are
observing glare.
Light trespass is a
light fixture on one property that illuminates an
adjacent or nearby property. Much of our
exterior lighting
shines directly upward, causing the sky above our cities to
glow and washing out our view of the
dark night sky.
Sensible shoreland
lighting does its intended job well, with minimum adverse
impact on neighbors and the
environment. The
following are some suggestions for sensible shoreland
lighting.
*Provide adequate
light for the intended task, but don’t over-light. Choose
lights that meet your needs without
lighting the entire
neighborhood.
*Glare is both the
most common lighting problem and one of the easiest to
detect and fix. Eliminate glare by
shielding light
fixtures so the direct rays of light cannot reach our eye.
*Use full cut-off
lighting fixtures to minimize glare. Full cut-off means that
no light is emitted above the horizon.
*Retrofit existing
fixtures with shields to reduce glare. In some cases, small
pieces of aluminum sheeting fitted to the
fixture will
suffice.
*Use fixtures with
high-efficiency lamps, while still considering the
color and quality of the light they produce.
*Avoid dusk to dawn
security lights. A more effective approach to
security lighting is motion detectors.
Eliminating glare
and light pollution saves money while reducing our impact
upon our neighbors and creatures of
the night,.
Spring
Burning
Restrictions Began April 14
Spring open burning
restrictions for much of central Minnesota went into
effect on Monday, April 14, 2008.
The restrictions
are meant to address the fact that most spring wildfires
originate from the burning of yard debris,
according to Olin
Phillips, Minnesota Department of Natural Resources
(DNR) fire protection manager.
The counties
affected by the April 14 restrictions are: Anoka, Benton,
Carlton, Chisago, Douglas, Grant, Isanti,
Kanabec, Mille
Lacs, Morrison, Pine, Pope, Sherburne, Stearns, Stevens,
Todd and Washington. Additional
counties will be
added to the restricted area as temperatures warm,
snow cover disappears and the
potential for
wildfire increases in areas north of the Twin Cities metro area.
Go to the DNR web
site --www.dnr.state.mn.us --for a map of fire
restriction areas and more information.
“The DNR is asking
residents to use alternative methods of debris disposal,
such as recycling, composting or
chipping,” Phillips
said.
Restrictions are
going into effect later than in recent years, thanks to normal
winter snowfall and cool spring weather.
Since the inception
of spring burning restrictions, the number of spring
wildfires has been reduced.