Newsletter, Spring 2008 
  

CLA to Begin Control of Curlyleaf  Pondweed in Selected Sites
As many of you are aware, the invasive species curlyleaf pondweed is becoming more and more of a nuisance in
Upper and Lower Cullen Lakes. Middle Cullen does not  yet have any noticeable infestations of it. Last summer,
due to low lake water levels, no snow cover on the lake for  most of the winter, and an extremely warm early spring,
curlyleaf got an extra early good start to its growing season and it formed large surface mats on many areas of the
lakes. These mats greatly interfered with navigation until  the plants died back in July. Then, with all the nutrients
released into the water by the dying plants, native  vegetation enjoyed a long, healthy growth spurt. Thus,
curlyleaf pondweed packs a double whammy --forming  thick surface mats of plants during the first half of the
summer and fertilizing native plants during the rest of the  summer.

Your Board of Directors has decided it is time to take action and it has selected the local company Minnesota
Shoreline Restoration, Inc. to conduct a pilot three year  program for treatment of curlyleaf pondweed in two
selected areas of the Cullen Lakes chain. The two areas are the northeast portion of Lower Cullen and the south
outlet vicinity of Upper Cullen. These areas were chosen  because of the amount of curlyleaf pondweed present and
the amount of boat traffic through the curlyleaf, cutting it  into pieces that float off and spread the plant to new areas.
Exactly how many surface acres will be chemically  treated for curlyleaf pondweed control will be
determined this spring by a pre treatment survey. Treatment cost per acre will be $400. Chemical control of
this invasive aquatic species needs a minimum of three  consecutive years to be successful. Future curlyleaf
pondweed control will be determined by the success of this  pilot program.

CLA has enough money in its Projects and Invasives CD  accounts to fund the first year of this three year pilot
program. We will need to raise funds to pay for future years’ chemical treatment. The Board of Directors is
currently discussing various ideas for conducting this fund raising. If you have experience and/or expertise in
fund raising, or if you have what you think might be a  good idea or two, please contact a member of the Board
and let him/her know. There will be more details on all of  this in the summer newsletter and at the Annual Meeting.
Fund raising is going to be a big effort and property  owners on all three lakes will need to help out as much as
they can.

Most Improved Shoreline Award Debuts This Year
It is time to submit your nomination(s) for CLA’s 2008 Most Improved Shoreline Award, to be presented to a
maximum of one property per lake this summer at the August 9 Annual Meeting. This award will be in addition
to the Lake Friendly Shoreline Awards.

Candidates may nominate their own property or they may  be nominated by a neighbor or friend. Nominations must
include the property owner’s name, “before” shoreline  photos, “after” shoreline photos, and a short written
narrative of the work done. Nominations may be sent to Ann Beaver, 26834 Pine Acres Rd., Nisswa, MN 56468.
Nominations for this year’s award must be received by  July 12, 2008.

If you think you might be interested in being considered for this award in the future, start your planning and picture
taking now. It takes a while for a lakeshore to show the  effects of your efforts! CLA has two items in its lending
library to help you with your shoreline improvement  project: the CR-ROM “Restore Your Shore,” a multimedia
program that guides users through the process of protecting  a natural shoreline or restoring a degraded shore with a
natural buffer; and the book Lakescaping for Wildlife and  Water Quality. Contact Ann Beaver to borrow these items.

On-site Wastewater Disposal System Advice Offered
Seasonal property owners will be returning to their lake  homes and cabins soon. The leaders of the Lake and
Watershed Association of South Carolina put together this  concise information about on-site wastewater (septic)
system management for their members. CLA members may find it helpful, too.

General Advice
*Take time to learn how your septic system works.
*Learn the indications of a failing system.
*Know the location of your tank, tank access lid, and drain  field.
*Understand that no traditional septic system is ever "maintenance free.”
*Understand that the practices and actions of homeowners can significantly impact functionality of a septic system.
*Have the capability to inspect your system periodically.
*Install a riser with lid.
*Pump out your system as needed; learn how to calculate  how often your system needs to be pumped.

Best Practices
*Additive systems bought at grocery/hardware stores are generally not helpful.
*Avoid greases, excessive bleach, or harsh detergents  entering your waste system. Strong chemicals kill "good"
bacteria in the system and can cause your system to fail.
*Don't flush any solid items into the system that can be put  in the trash; many of these will not degrade in the system
and necessitate more frequent pumping.
*Limit use of garbage disposals that pass solids into your  system, for the same reason as above.
*Do not allow vehicles to drive over your tank or drain  field. Do not build structures over the leach field either.
*Do not direct surface water or downspouts to release water over the drain field.
*It is not safe to separate wash waters/gray water to a side ditch or the woods. Gray water contains germs that can spread disease.
*Never enter your septic tank. Toxic gases can kill.
*If your tank is not pumped periodically, solids can flow  into your drain field where they clog the normal action of
water filtering into the soil. This begins the process leading  to failure of the drain field. This is the most prevalent
cause of failure.
*Never damage or remove the inlet and outlet "tee" pipe in  your tank. Doing so changes the intended process in the
tank, and can result in solids moving into the drain field.

Warning Signs of a Failing System Needing Attention
*Damp, mushy ground above parts of the drain field.
*Standing water with an oily film or dark color.
*Odor problems.
*Household plumbing that backs up or doesn't drain  properly.

Three Reasons (many exist) to Properly Maintain Your Septic System
*Economic --The expense and time to properly maintain a  system is minor compared to the cost to repair or replace a
system (not to mention the mess to your yard).
*Health --You do not want to expose your family or others to disease carrying bacteria.
*Environment --Failed systems pollute lakes and drinking water.

 Is Your Shoreline Washing Away?
If your shoreline is eroding it is because the soil has been  destabilized. This can be the result of fluctuating water
levels, increased wave or wake action, ice pushes, loss of  natural vegetation, and human activity.
Protecting your shoreline likely doesn’t need to be high-cost or highly engineered. There are affordable, low - impact
 methods to stabilize your  shoreline and still protect  property values, water   quality, and habitat.

The Minnesota Department of Natural Resources (DNR) encourages you to consider planting native vegetation
(deep rooted grasses, forbs, shrubs, trees) to control  shoreline erosion, enhance aesthetic values, and contribute
to better water quality in your lake. Only where there is a  demonstrated need to use rip rap to stop existing erosion or
to restore an eroded shoreline is the installation of rip rap allowed. It should be viewed as the least desirable
solution to an erosion problem because, although it can  reduce erosion, it can be expensive and can negatively
affect lakes by creating a barrier between upland areas and  the shoreline environment. Rip rap should only be used
where it has been shown to be necessary and never to replace a stable, naturally vegetated shoreline. Also, it
should be noted that rip rap is not maintenance free nor does it eliminate ice heaving; in fact, it can increase the
damage to the shoreline done by ice heaving. If rip rap is used, consider planting live cuttings and plant plugs within
the rip rap to provide additional slope stability, give your shoreline a more natural appearance, and provide a modest
amount of habitat

MARK YOUR CALENDARS!
Cullen Lakes Association Annual Meeting
Saturday, August 9, 2008

Membership Update
On March 8, final notices were mailed to those members  who had not yet paid their dues for 2008. As of April 12,
CLA had 213 paid memberships. In addition, complimentary memberships had been extended to 15 new  property owners, bringing the total membership to 228.

Donations continue to be received with dues payments. To date, CLA has received $3,355 in donations. Each donation
was acknowledged with a thank you note, but CLA would like to thank once again the many people who included a
donation with their dues.

At this time there are 22 past members who have not yet  renewed their membership in CLA. If you are among them,
please consider sending your dues as soon as possible to: 
CLA Membership
P.O. Box 466
Nisswa, MN 56468

Dreaming of Spring!
by Anne Kostreba

I’m writing this during the April 11th blizzard so hopefully by the time you read this the snow will have finally melted and there will  be signs of spring. One of the signs of spring is the trash in the ditches  along the roads that needs to be  cleaned up.
Our annual spring road cleanup will be
Saturday, May 17.
We will meet at 8:30 a.m at Wilderness Ridge Road, off Hwy. 371. Bags, gloves, reflective vests, as well as long handled “grabbers” (so you don’t even  have to bend over) will be provided. Last year we had a  great turnout and were done in about an hour. An hour of
your time for the environment! It is also a great way to get  to know some of the other Lake Association members.  Bring friends, relatives, anyone who would enjoy a little exercise, some fresh air and great conversation.
Refreshments will be served.


Currents on the Cullens
New owners
Middle Cullen: Mark & Angela Wallin (M58.5);
Wilderness Resort Villas --Lowell & Darlene Bonnema, Patricia Heald, Thomas Wilson & Gayle Gaumer, Thomas
& Marjorie Hane
Lower Cullen: Good Ol’ Days Resort unit --Brian & Jill  Guimont

Correction to the last edition: Location of Michael & Colleen Nelson property is L109, not L100.

Latest Land Use Developments On the Cullen Chain
On March 25, 2008 the Crow Wing County Board of Commissioners approved the final plat for Stallion Ridge,
a ten lot (in addition to the existing lot with a house) development on the Gammello property on the northeast
shore of Upper Cullen Lake.

The lots will be sold for single family home residential use only. The developer, Stallion Development, St. Michael,
MN, has developed a lakeshore owners guide, which includes many DNR fact sheets, that it plans to give to all
who purchase the lots. Property owners will also be given suggestions on how to share dock access to open water, but
they will not be required to do so.

On March 20. 2008 the Crow Wing County Board of Adjustment denied an after-the-fact variance request on the
former Iten property on Middle Cullen Lake (now in  foreclosure) for a bluff setback of zero feet instead of the
required 30 feet for:
 1) dirt moving of approximately
450-500 cubic yards,
 2) septic system installation in the 
bluff and within the footprint of the dwelling, and
3)
construction of a retaining wall in the bluff. Basically  what the property owner had done was to cut off the top of
the existing bluff to create a building site. The result of the  decision is that the property will have to be restored to its
pre violation condition.

What Causes Ice Ridges and What Can I Do About Them?
from the MN DNR Fact Sheet “Shoreline Alterations: Ice Ridges”

Property owners occasionally return to their cabins in the  spring only to discover they are dealing with property
damage caused by a phenomenon called “ice heaving” or “ice jacking.” This powerful natural force forms a feature
along the shoreline known as an “ice ridge.” The result  may include significant damage to retaining walls, docks
and boat lifts, and sometimes even to the cabin itself.

How do ice ridges form? Ice ridges are caused by the pushing action of a lake’s ice sheet against the shore.
Cracks form in the ice because of different contraction  rates at the top and bottom of the ice sheet. This is
especially true in years that the ice sheet lacks an insulating snow cover. Ice cracks also develop because
the edges of the ice sheet are sometimes firmly attached to the shore. When water rises in the cracks and freezes, the
ice sheet expands slightly. Rising air temperatures warm the ice, leading to additional expansion, which exerts a
tremendous thrust against the shore. Alternate warming and cooling of the ice sheet leads to additional pushing
action, causing the ice to creep shoreward and scrape, gouge, and push soil and rock into mounds -- ice ridges.

What can be done about ice ridges after they form?
Because ice ridges do provide ecological benefits  (described later is this article), the ideal reaction to the
formation of an ice ridge would be to do nothing other  than remove personal property from its zone of influence.
However, this is often impractical. Ice ridges can impede use of the lake by a property owner or the users of public
lakeshore facilities. Therefore, action may be taken to remedy the results of ice activity.

Lake access can be obtained by installing a ramp over or a stairway through the ice ridge. There are circumstances,
however, when it may be necessary to remove or grade an ice ridge. An individual Public Waters Work Permit is not
required from the DNR to remove or grade an ice ridge if  the work meets all the following conditions:

*The ice ridge resulted from ice action within the last year.
*The project is either exempt from local permits or is authorized by issuance of a local government permit.
*Not more than 200 feet of shoreline is affected.
*All ice ridge material that consists of muck, clay, or organic sediment is deposited and stabilized at an upland
site above the ordinary high water level (OHWL)
*All ice ridge material that consists of sand or gravel is  removed as provided in the bulleted statement above or
graded to conform to the original cross section and  alignment of the lakebed, with a finished surface at or
below the OHWL.
*No additional excavation or replacement fill material  occurs on the site.
*All exposed areas are immediately stabilized as needed to  prevent erosion and sedimentation. (Refer to DNR
information on Lakescaping for how to do this.)
*Local zoning officials and the Soil and Water Conservation District (SWCD) are given at least seven (7)
days’ notice before beginning the project.

Removal or grading of an ice ridge must not disturb emergent aquatic vegetation, unless authorized by an
aquatic plant management permit from the DNR’s  Division of Fisheries.

What can be done about ice ridges before they form?
The simplest means of avoiding ice-related damage to shoreline property is to ensure that personal property is out
of wrath’s path. Engineering solutions are sometimes pursued to try to prevent ice ridge formation, but they can
be expensive and ineffective, and they should only be attempted by professionals in the field. Also, an individual
Public Waters Work Permit is likely required for an  engineering solution.

What are the benefits of ice ridges?   Ice ridges are natural berms that have formed around Minnesota’s lakes over
thousands of years. These mounds of material provide the lake with ecological benefits by creating a barrier to
nutrient loading. Nutrients collect on the landward side of  the mound, producing fertile soil where plants and trees
thrive. The root systems of this near-shore plant  community help to protect the shore from erosion and soak
up additional nutrients. Shade and habitat offered by near-shore plants benefit organisms along the shore and in the
lake, thus supporting nesting and spawning fish.

Ice ridges also work to protect the shore from the lake itself. For example, a small ice ridge formed one year is
followed by additional pushes in ensuing years. The ridge  is fortified by jamming rocks into it. The roots of the near-
shore plant community bind together the soil and rock to form natural shoreline protection.


from the president’s pen

Reflections From a Beaver Lodge
by Ann Beaver

Reading through the CLA Guide For Lakeshore Owners last fall in preparation for making some updates and
revisions to it, I realized I hadn’t perused it in quite a while. I would imagine most of you haven’t looked at it
very recently either. So, I’ve decided to devote my space in this issue to reminding all of us of some of the important
tidbits the guide contains.

There’s a lot of talk these days about the importance of  having a vegetative buffer strip along the shoreline. The
main reasons for doing so are to: 1) protect water quality  by preventing contaminants from entering the lake, 2)
reduce erosion by controlling runoff, 3) preserve the  esthetic value of the lakeshore, 4) provide habitat for
wildlife, 5) provide privacy and serve as a buffer from the  noise of lake activity, and 6) increase the enjoyment of
being at the lake by decreasing the time spent on lawn care. The easiest way to get a buffer strip started is to
simply stop mowing. A buffer strip is most effective as a  filter if native species are allowed to grow or are planted
over as large an area of the shoreline as possible.

Did you know the amount of vegetation that may be removed in the shore impact zone (half the structure
setback from the lake) and the bluff impact zone (the bluff and land located within 30 feet from the top of the bluff) is
regulated by local zoning ordinances? If you plan to remove any vegetation in these areas, be sure to check
with your local planning and zoning office.

Also, since the alteration of shoreland through excavation  or fill of materials can adversely affect the natural
resources, such activities are strictly regulated by state and  local units of government. The dirt moving standards are
designed to allow greater amounts of dirt moving as the distance from the water increases. Be sure to check to see
if you need any permits before starting any project in the  shoreland.

A couple of septic system tips to add to those in the article on page 2:
*Use toilet paper that breaks up easily when wet (usually 1-ply).
*Use low or zero phosphate liquid dishwasher and laundry detergents.
*Do only one load of laundry per day and try not to run the dishwasher and washing machine too close together. Give
your septic system time to deal with all the water being put into it.

Do you give the placement of your dock much thought?  Lakes are public waters. Therefore, docks do not have to
meet the side yard setback from your property line since they are in and on public property. However, if you plan to
use both sides of your dock for recreational activities or boat mooring, please be a good neighbor and place your
dock more toward the center of your shoreline.

Some of you may not realize that a permit is needed to  place swimming rafts in the water between sunset and
sunrise. The same is true of buoys. Permitted items must be lit or reflectorized for the safety of others on the lake.
While the use of recreational activity accessories can increase the enjoyment of the lake, remember that the
design and placement of these items, by law, must not  interfere with the rights of others to use public waters.

Many properties on the Cullen Lakes have areas in the rear lot zone where leaves, vines, plants, and small brush can
be deposited or composted. When this is not an option, the  refuse can be taken to the Crow Wing County Sanitary
Landfill. A third option is to burn the dried vegetation. However, except when there are at least three inches of
snow on the ground, the burning of yard waste requires a permit . If you decide to burn, remember to 1) obtain
a burning permit, 2) burn well away from the shoreline to keep unneeded nutrients out of the lake, 3) make sure the
prevailing wind is away from nearby residents, and 4) follow permit regulations. And remember, it is illegal to
burn household waste because of the dangerous toxins it releases into the air.

Finally, please do your part in preventing the spread of invasive species. Know the precautions you should take
when using your boats, trailers and personal watercraft in more than one lake (see pages 32-33 of your CLA guide or
refer to the DNR’s fishing and boating publications). Also, be sure to empty your bait buckets on land and drain the
live wells, bilge water, and transom wells of your boat before leaving a water access area.

July 4th Boat Parades
Both Middle and Lower Cullen Lakes will once again have a boat  parade on the Fourth of July.
Participants should gather at the east end of their lake shortly before 2:00 P.M. Photos from  each parade will appear in the summer newsletter.

Rain Barrels: A Way of Collecting and Using Rainwater

WHAT IS A RAIN BARREL?
University of Minnesota Extension

A rain barrel is any type of container used to catch
water flowing from a downspout. Rain barrels reduce the amount of stormwater runoff by collecting roof runoff and storing the rainwater for future use.

HOW DOES IT WORK?

The rain barrel is placed underneath a shortened  downspout, diverting the roof runoff into the rain
barrel. Placing the rain barrel on a STURDY platform will allow for more clearance under the
spigot, and it will also increase the rate of flow if  you are attaching a hose to the barrel’s spigot.

HOW DO I MAINTAIN THE RAIN 
BARREL?
During the spring and summer months routinely inspect your rain
barrel. Remove any debris that has  accumulated on the lid that might
block the screen mesh. You should also routinely clean the inside of
your rain barrel. During the winter months, remember to take your barrel
out of operation. Simply turn it  upside down or store it inside and
redirect the downspout away from the foundation.

BENEFITS OF USING A RAIN BARREL
  •  They provide an alternative to tap water for watering lawns and flower gardens.
  •  They will help reduce peak volume and velocity of stormwater runoff reaching lakes and rivers.
  •  They will help reduce peak water demands during the summer months.

RESTRICTIONS ON RAIN BARREL USE
  • Water collected from rain barrels is not suitable for human or pet consumption.
  •  Due to lack of research data, water collected in a rain barrel is not recommended for watering fruit or vegetable gardens.
  • The water flow (and pressure) will be less than from your outdoor spigot, making sprinklers ineffective.
Plan to use soaker hoses, handheld spray nozzles and/or watering cans. Elevating
your rain barrel on a sturdy platform will increase the flow.

INTERESTING FACTS ABOUT RAIN BARRELS
  •  Rainwater can actually help improve the health of your gardens, lawn and trees. Rainwater is naturally “soft” and devoid of minerals, chlorine and other chemicals found in city water.
  •  During a one-inch rain event 0.6 gallons of water will fall on a square foot ofroof and 54 gallons will fall on 90 square feet of roof—enough to fill a 55 gallon rain barrel. To collect twice this volume  from the same downspout, connect the overflow hose from the first rain barrel to a second rain barrel.
  • A plastic rain barrel may be painted any color you wish. Use spray paint specially formulated to bond well to plastic surfaces.
  • Rain barrels can be purchased at a cost betwen $70-$300. Or, you can reduce your costs considerably by making your own.
Have you ever watched a river of rainwater run down your driveway into the lake or storm sewer? Or  even worse, seep into your basement? Collecting roof runoff in rain barrels is a good solution to these  problems and it also helps alleviate stressed water systems and conserve limited resources. Although rain barrels have been around for thousands of years, people are now encouraged more than ever to use them as a way to protect our lakes and rivers while saving money on water bills.

Start a new trend—by placing rain barrels around your house, you will be teaching and encouraging others in your neighborhood to do the same!


Rain Barrels -- $88.80
available at the Northland Arboretum Visitor Center

Monday - Friday, 8 a.m. - 4 p.m.
218-829-8770

Preserve the Beauty of the Night With Sensible Shoreland Lighting
excerpted from an article by Dave Liebl, UW Extension

Many of us can remember sitting on a dock on a crystal clear summer night, the water as flat as glass, the inky
black surface mirroring the sky, the great white Milky Way, a falling star tracing a path across the heavens.

Unfortunately, this precious part of our heritage, the outdoors with only the light of the moon and stars, is
fading away. Dusk to dawn lights obscure our view of constellations, meteor showers, planets and the landscape
lit by the moon.

Sensible lighting can minimize the three most serious problems along shorelands: glare, light trespass and sky
glow. The first principle of good lighting is to illuminate only what we wish to see. When we see light from a
fixture itself rather than what the fixture is meant to illuminate, we are observing glare.

Light trespass is a light fixture on one property that illuminates an adjacent or nearby property. Much of our
exterior lighting shines directly upward, causing the sky above our cities to glow and washing out our view of the
dark night sky.

Sensible shoreland lighting does its intended job well, with  minimum adverse impact on neighbors and the
environment. The following are some suggestions for sensible shoreland lighting.

*Provide adequate light for the intended task, but don’t  over-light. Choose lights that meet your needs without
lighting the entire neighborhood.
*Glare is both the most common lighting problem and one of the easiest to detect and fix. Eliminate glare by
shielding light fixtures so the direct rays of light cannot  reach our eye.
*Use full cut-off lighting fixtures to minimize glare. Full  cut-off means that no light is emitted above the horizon.
*Retrofit existing fixtures with shields to reduce glare. In  some cases, small pieces of aluminum sheeting fitted to the
fixture will suffice.
*Use fixtures with high-efficiency lamps, while still considering the color and quality of the light they produce.
*Avoid dusk to dawn security lights. A more effective approach to security lighting is motion detectors.

Eliminating glare and light pollution saves money while reducing our impact upon our neighbors and creatures of
the night,.

Spring Burning Restrictions Began April 14
Spring open burning restrictions for much of central  Minnesota went into effect on Monday, April 14, 2008.
The restrictions are meant to address the fact that most spring wildfires originate from the burning of yard debris,
according to Olin Phillips, Minnesota Department of Natural Resources (DNR) fire protection manager.

The counties affected by the April 14 restrictions are: Anoka, Benton, Carlton, Chisago, Douglas, Grant, Isanti,
Kanabec, Mille Lacs, Morrison, Pine, Pope, Sherburne, Stearns, Stevens, Todd and Washington. Additional
counties will be added to the restricted area as temperatures warm, snow cover disappears and the
potential for wildfire increases in areas north of the Twin Cities metro area.

Go to the DNR web site --www.dnr.state.mn.us --for a map of fire restriction areas and more information.

“The DNR is asking residents to use alternative methods of debris disposal, such as recycling, composting or
chipping,” Phillips said.

Restrictions are going into effect later than in recent years, thanks to normal winter snowfall and cool spring weather.
Since the inception of spring burning restrictions, the number of spring wildfires has been reduced.




UPDATED April 14,  2008

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