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Operating Your Septic System.

SEPTIC TANK MAINTENANCE

by Shirley Hild

Septic systems that are properly designed, installed, operated and maintained will provide effective sewage treatment for many years. As homeowners with our own mini-treatment sewage plants, we have a
responsibility to ensure that our systems continue to adequately treat wastewater through proper use and maintenance.

A septic system that inadequately treats wastewater can potentially contaminate surface and ground water, resulting in health risks to both humans and animals. It can also allow excess nutrients to reach the lake, promoting algae and weed growth which can make lake use unpleasant and affect the quality of the water in fish and wildlife habitat areas.

Proper maintenance of a sewage treatment system includes the periodical cleaning (pumping) of the septic tank. If the floating scum and sludge that accumulates in the tank is not removed on a regular schedule, they can enter the soil treatment system (drainfield), causing expensive and most probably irreparable damage.

How often should the septic tank be pumped? The frequency will depend on the tank size, the use of the system, and its operating condition. In most cases, the tank will need to be cleaned every 18-30 months. In no case should the frequency be less than once every three years.

It is not only our responsibility as stewards of the environment to maintain our septic systems on a regular basis, but we are legally required to do so. Minnesota Rules, Chapter 7080, which provide minimum standards for individual sewage treatment systems, require that the owner of such a system check and/or pump the sewage tank at least once every three years. This inspection or cleaning must be performed by a licensed pumper. It is important to note that the rules do not differentiate between a system that serves a seasonal or a residential property.

How much does it cost to have the tank inspected or cleaned by a licensed pumper? The cost can range from $85 to $130 for a cleaning. The cost of just an inspection will be about the same. Budgeting for this item every one to three years can be much less expensive and certainly much easier to plan for than an unexpected bill of $2,000 to $10,000 to replace or repair the existing system!!

To determine how often your septic tank should be cleaned, refer to pages 13 and 14 of your copy of MANAGING YOUR SHORELAND: A Guide for Lakeshore Owners.

Here's More Information to Help You
Keep your Septic System in Good Working Order!

Facts:

One pound of phosphorous, if not properly treated by your On-Site Septic System, will produce 100 to 500 pounds of Algea and/or plant life in your lake!

25% to 60% of Nitrates are removed from waste water in the soil portion of your drain field. They total about 40 pounds per year in an average home system.

A properly designed and maintained On-Site Sewage Treatment System will do a better job treating waste water than a Municipal Waste Water Treatment Plant! (U of M Extension Service 12-99)

Link HERE to University of Minnesota Web Site on Septic System Issues

The HEALTH ISSUE

The "number one" purpose of an "On-Site" Sewage Treatment System,
(Septic System), is to PROTECT HUMAN HEALTH.

Your septic system also treats waste water so that it can be used again while at the same time protecting the environment. Don't think for a minute that last glass of water you enjoyed so much contained "VIRGIN WATER". It just ain't so! That water has been around the block a few times. Actually, many times.

Think back to your years in school and you may remember the "cycle of water".

Evaporation, Condensation, Precipitation, Saturation and Run-Off.

Without an effective method of waste water treatment we'd all have to drink rain water (or milk).

Waste and waste water which enters your septic system contains:

Disease Causing Pathogens, Bacteria and Viruses
Nitrogen and Phosphorous
Heavy Metals like Mercury, Lead, Copper
Cleaning Compounds (some of which kill bacteria) and Chemicals
Solids - organic and inorganic

Unless these toxins are treated effectively and safely, they could cause real damage to you or to someone else. The most effective way to treat them is through a properly designed and maintained On Site Sewage Treatment System. The most qualified and logical person to insure that your system is properly maintained is YOU! YOU are the only person who knows what went into your system in the first place.

Haven't had your Old System checked or replaced?

Nobody likes to give money away. Especially when it goes into the ground and doesn't noticeably improve your property. Right?
Correct. But there's more to this story.
If you have a system that was installed before the 1980's, it could be failing to properly treat your household waste water. That could be disastrous to you or your neighbors or your lake. The only way to tell if your system is functioning correctly is to have it tested and evaluated by a licensed inspector. The County Planning and Zoning office has a list of inspectors available free for the asking. It is extremely dangerous and also illegal to use a septic system that has failed. A so-called "Sub-Standard" system might not be "failing" in terms of treating waste and does not have to be replaced until it fails to function properly. You have very little to lose and much to gain by having your older system inspected to insure that it is working properly (even if uncle Oscar tells you about how well them ol' cesspools worked back in his day). Anyone who tells you that a cistern or cesspool (or 55 gallon barrel) properly treats and safely disposes of waste water is either ignorant of the facts or is not being truthful with you. The county will work with you in your attempt to upgrade and improve your septic system in the event that it needs repair or replacement and there are low interest programs available to help with the cost of a new system. Every day an old, failing system is allowed to exist increases the chance of polluting the groundwater and makes the cleanup more costly and difficult. YOU, as the homeowner, are responsible for the cleanup should an old failing system be red tagged by the county for replacement. It benefits everyone to clean up these old systems as soon as they are identified.

Causes of Failure

The "number one" cause of Septic System failure is IMPROPER DESIGN OR THE INSTALLATION PROCESS ITSELF. If your septic system was designed to treat 200 gallons of waste water daily and you send 300 gallons of waste water into the same system, something has to give. It's usually the system that does and it may let you know that it is not happy about this, or, it may not. Eventually IT WILL let you know and in a very unpleasant and expensive way!

The "number two" cause (no pun intended) of Septic System failure is IMPROPER MAINTENANCE. Just like the vacuum you likely use every day to clean up around the house (and all you men know about these things), your septic tank occasionally needs to be emptied. Imagine how much crud there would be in the filter or vacuum bag if you vacuumed all your floors and steps and furniture (where the cat sleeps) everyday for 2, 3 or maybe even 4 years but only emptied the filter or bag once! It's the same with your septic tank. Like it or not, you really need to have it correctly cleaned and pumped out at least every two years under normal design conditions. If you need a reminder, just think of that vacuum bag you haven't emptied in four years. Who will volunteer to empty that bag after all that time and use? (Clue: If you are elected for this task, wear protective eyewear and insert ear plugs to muffle the explosive sound of that bag when you pry it loose from the vacuum). You can substitute your teenager's room for the vacuum in this section if it helps explain this cleaning theory more clearly.

The number three cause of Septic System failure is DRAIN FIELD FAILURE. How does a drain field "fail"? It loses the ability to properly dispose of septic system effluent. Effluent is the residual liquid part of sewage waste water discharged from your septic tank after the sewage has been partially treated within the septic tank. The bad stuff in the effluent is then treated when it enters your drainfield. (If this doesn't make sense to you, the effluent is one of the nasty things that can spoil your day when it comes up out of the ground at the time your septic system overflows). Too much water delivered to your septic tank and it's "Goodnight Irene". Some of the solid material that is supposed to settle to the bottom or float in the septic tank goes right down the drain. Only, this drain dumps everything right into the drainfield-which can clog things up and cause you big headaches later. A drainfield is a terrible thing to waste, so keep it clean and pump that tank, use less water and take care of your septic system.

What Can I Do?

Here are several easy ways to extend the useful life of your drain field by reducing solids which need to be separated from the sewage effluent before it is sent to the drain field:

Other than bathroom tissue, don't put anything down the toilet unless you have eaten it first!
Don't install garbage disposals! The food waste takes a long time to degrade and fills up your septic tank. Throw it out with the garbage! If you use a Garbage Disposal, pump your tank Every Year. Or, better yet, compost your kitchen scraps. Keep kitchen Grease out of your septic system. It is not broken down easily by your system and can clog your drain field.
Regular maintenance of your On-Site Septic System will prevent a premature failure of the drain field (the most expensive part of any septic system) and will allow the system to do what it is supposed to, safely treat waste water and return the treated residual water back into the ground water table. Pump your septic tanks out at least every Two Years. If you use a Garbage Disposal, pump your tank Every Year. Insist that the pumper clean your septic through the large concrete manhole on top of your septic tank, rather than the 4 inch inspection pipe which sticks up through your lawn until you run over it with the mower.
Use Liquid Laundry Detergent and only according to the instructions on the label. Some powdered laundry detergents use clay as a "carrier." (Yes, clay. Explain that one to aunt Edna) This clay can plug up the drain field. The use of Sudsavers is highly recommended. Read More Here.
Minimize the amount of Household Cleaners (bleach, harsh cleaners) entering the septic system. Pump your septic every 6 to 12 months if you do lots of painting or staining. (Note: this does not mean it's OK to pour paint and stain down your drain into your septic system. Please be responsible-remove all paint and stain from brushes and rollers before you clean them and keep as much of the residual paint and stain from entering the system as you can).
Do not use Automatic Toilet Bowl Cleaners, such as "2,000&1 Flushes." The continuous slow release of these chemicals into the septic system kills the micro-organisms which treat your waste water.
You do not need to put Special Additives into your septic system for it to work correctly and some products may prevent solids from settling out of the sewage flow which then plugs the drain field.
NEVER drive or park on your drainfield. Looser soil means better effluent absorption.
IT MIGHT SMELL GOOD, BUT BEWARE!

from "About Septic Systems" by Floyd Hennagir, The Siseebakwet Lake Association Journal

Do not use scented toilet paper if you have a septic system; it has a tendency to resist break up. If you take a new sheet of your toilet paper and place it in a water-filled quart jar and (with the lid on) shake it up,

you can see the break up of the tissue. If it readily breaks up, it is okay to send to your septic system. If it does not break up, it could create drain field plugging. Baby diapers, paper towels, and cloth items such as

face or hand towels, etc. should never be sent to your septic tank.

These little things help your septic system work better too!

Space out Laundry Loads over the course of the Week and wash only Full Loads.
Install Low usage Water Fixtures. By installing low water usage Shower heads (2.5 gallons/minute), Toilets (1.6 gallons rather than the old 5 gallon models), Dishwashers (5.3 gallons) and Washing machines (14 gallons) an average family can reduce the amount of water entering the septic system by 20,000 gallons per year! Low flow shower heads and toilets can be purchased at many local stores. A flow restrictor or an aerator can also be used to reduce water flow in your shower head.
Set your Water softener to Recharge as Infrequently as comfortable.

Link HERE to University of Minnesota Web Site on Septic System Issues

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